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My name is Everett Noel. I am 19 years old and have been making knives for the past six years.  Last year I graduated from high school and took a break from school to make knives full time.  I made a knife shop out of an old trailer and traveled around California making knives.  Now I am back in school getting a BFA and I am continuing to make knives on the side.

I started making knives when I was 13 years old.  I have always loved making things, and I wanted to find something I could keep making and focus on.  I found a YouTube video on how to make a knife, and thought I would try it out.  My first knife was terrible, but they kept getting better and after making a few I knew that I wanted to be a full time knife maker.  Over the past six years I have been working on perfecting my product, and starting my business.  

 
 
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Blade

All of my knives are made out of high carbon steel, which is heat treated for the best performance.

My preferred steeles are 1095, 1084, 80crv2, and old files, which I re-harden.

My heat treating process goes as follows:

The first step of the process is to soften the steel and even out the the crystalline structure. This is called normalizing and annealing the steel. The knives are heated to 1575F and then they are slowly cooled to room temperature. After this, they are Heated to 1475F and slowly cooled again.
After the knives are softened, I finally get to re-harden them. To do this, I heat them up to 1475F and then plunge them into the oil which I have heated to 130F. After I harden the knives, they are too hard, and if they were to be dropped on concrete they would break. To make them a little stronger and more flexible I temper them. To do this, I put them in the oven at 400F-450F depending on how hard I want them. To find out more about the process, I found a lot of the information on usaknifemaker.com among other sources.

 

 

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Handle

I use local wood, and scraps from local wood workers for almost all of the hands I make.

The local wood comes from my property in Nevada County, where there are a lot of fallen trees I am able to collect from. I gather a lot of black oak, madrone, and maple. When I get wood from other wood workers, I get the scraps that are too small to be made into chairs, tables etc.

Once I have the wood, I cut it into small 4”-6” pieces that are more manageable. I then ship them to kandgstabilizing.com where the wood is impregnated with resin. This makes the wood harder, and makes it so the wood cant absorb water.

 

 

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Sheath

I make the sheaths out of vegetable tanned leather.

I wet the letter with water and mold it to the shape of the knife. When it is dry the leather will hold its new shape. I then die the leather and sew the sheath together. I then use rivets to secure the sheath even more. I wax the leather when the sheath is finished, to prevent cracking and improve the water resistance.

 
 

Knife Care

Blade: My knives are made with high carbon steel. This gives a knife that holds a great edge and is easy to sharpen. The down side is that it will rust. This can be easily avoided if the blade is wiped dry after use. In addition, oil can occasionally be applied to the knife to resist wear, but this is optional. The knife should grey over time and form a patina over time. This doesn’t effect how will the knife works, and adds character to the blade in my opinion. If you want a shiny blade, It is best to look for stainless steel knives.

Handle: All the wood I use is stabilized and oiled, so there are no necessary steps to take care of it. If you want to make the wood “pop” you can apply Danish Oil every couple months.

Sheath: The sheaths are oiled and waxed, and should hold up. If you want to re-wax them, you can contact me for instruction at everettnoel12@gmail.com. If the sheath gets wet, take the knife out of it and set it in a warm dry area until the leather is dry.