All of my knives are made out of high carbon steel, which is heat treated for the best performance.
My preferred steeles are 1095, 1084, 80crv2, and old files, which I re-harden.
My heat treating process goes as follows:
The first step of the process is to soften the steel and even out the the crystalline structure. This is called normalizing and annealing the steel. The knives are heated to 1575F and then they are slowly cooled to room temperature. After this, they are Heated to 1475F and slowly cooled again.
After the knives are softened, I finally get to re-harden them. To do this, I heat them up to 1475F and then plunge them into the oil which I have heated to 130F. After I harden the knives, they are too hard, and if they were to be dropped on concrete they would break. To make them a little stronger and more flexible I temper them. To do this, I put them in the oven at 400F-450F depending on how hard I want them. To find out more about the process, I found a lot of the information on usaknifemaker.com among other sources.
I use local wood, and scraps from local wood workers for almost all of the hands I make.
The local wood comes from my property in Nevada County, where there are a lot of fallen trees I am able to collect from. I gather a lot of black oak, madrone, and maple. When I get wood from other wood workers, I get the scraps that are too small to be made into chairs, tables etc.
Once I have the wood, I cut it into small 4”-6” pieces that are more manageable. I then ship them to kandgstabilizing.com where the wood is impregnated with resin. This makes the wood harder, and makes it so the wood cant absorb water.
I make the sheaths out of vegetable tanned leather.
I wet the letter with water and mold it to the shape of the knife. When it is dry the leather will hold its new shape. I then die the leather and sew the sheath together. I then use rivets to secure the sheath even more. I wax the leather when the sheath is finished, to prevent cracking and improve the water resistance.